From restrictive corsets to visible outerwear: the evolving language of lingerie
Once a hidden layer of linen used for modesty and hygiene, lingerie has transformed into a powerful fashion statement. From the 19th-century liberation of the silhouette to the modern 'underwear as outerwear' trend, explore how intimate apparel moved from the shadows to the runway.
The term 'lingerie' originates from the French word 'linge', meaning linen or clothes. Historically, undergarments served functional roles: providing modesty, hygiene, and structural alteration. In the late 19th century, the industry began to shift away from bulky, restrictive garments like the crinoline. Pioneers such as Lady Duff-Gordon of Lucile helped develop lighter styles, while the 20th century saw the introduction of the brassiere, patented by Caresse Crosby, which eventually replaced the constricting corset.
The 20th century brought dramatic shifts in both silhouette and social meaning. During World War I, the need for practical clothing led to more breathable fabrics. By the 1935s and 1936, innovations like padded cups and underwire bras emerged to create a specific, curvaceous bustline. While the 1960s introduced an androgynous, slim aesthetic through designers like André Courrèges, the 1980s and 1990s saw the rise of lingerie as a global cultural phenomenon, driven by brands like Victoria's Secret and iconic moments like Madonna's 1990 use of Jean Paul Gaultier's cone bra.
Today, the boundary between intimate wear and outerwear is increasingly blurred, a trend often called 'dessous-dessus'. This includes the use of bralettes, harnesses, and body chains as visible fashion. The industry is also undergoing a significant shift toward inclusivity. Brands like Rihanna's Savage X Fenty have accelerated a move toward representing diverse body types, ethnicities, and gender identities, moving the focus from the male gaze toward personal empowerment and self-expression.
Source: Lingerie
