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Cloth built empires long before it hung on gallery walls

From Tyrian purple to Silk Road cargos, textiles were trade itself. Flax wrapped mummies by 6500 BCE; cotton spread from India after 327 BCE. The Industrial Revolution's cotton gin, spinning jenny, and power loom remade the world—and sparked Luddite revolt.

Textile art means work from natural or synthetic fibers, fabric, or textile—wall pieces, sculpture, installation, or functional décor. The Latin texere means to weave, braid, or construct. The simplest method is felting, matting animal fibers with heat and moisture. Most other techniques begin by spinning fibers into yarn, then knotting, looping, braiding, or weaving cloth. Embellishment spans dyeing, printing, embroidery, lace-making, sewing, knitting, crochet, quilting, and carpet weaving.

Cloth has clothed bodies, signaled status, stored goods, and insulated homes since early civilization. Tyrian purple dyed Mediterranean luxury trade; Chinese silk traveled the Silk Road to India, Africa, and Europe, while Sogdian silk moved the other way. Medieval and Renaissance sumptuary laws tried to police imported luxury fabrics. Much later, Industrial Revolution machinery for ginning, spinning, and weaving put fabric at the heart of factory production and provoked the Luddites. Robert Peake the Elder's Jacobean portrait of Henry Frederick, Prince of Wales, shows how many techniques one image can hold: a felted hat, silk-embroidered woven clothing, knitted stockings, a wool rug underfoot, and goldwork on the curtains and tablecloth announcing rank. The Romantic nineteenth century then split craft from fine art, so fiber art now names textile pieces made for display rather than use.

Plant fibers matter deep in prehistory: natural fibers appear important from about 7000 BCE, with ornamental use suspected in India by 400 BCE, and plant and animal fibers alone making cloth until the first synthetic fiber in 1885. Flax, likely the oldest textile fiber, appears in mummy tombs from as early as 6500 BCE; stem filaments spun into linen became bandages, clothing, and tapestries. Cotton use begins around 5000 BCE in India and the Middle East, reaching Europe after invasion of India in 327 BCE; seed hairs are mostly cellulose and spin into yarns for velvet, flannel, jersey, and more. Modern lab methods such as scanning electron microscopy identify ancient fibers by flax nodes or cotton's drying twist. Suzanne Lee's BioCouture even ferments plant-based sheets that sew like cloth and biodegrade entirely.

Source: Textile arts

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