How a 120-year-old recipe preserves the flavors of the Victorian era
Step into a culinary time machine with a recipe for Eccles cakes. Using a vintage cookbook published shortly after Queen Victoria’s death, we explore the spiced, flaky parcels that defined English tea time, revealing how simple ingredients like candied peel and mixed spice create a timeless, nostalgic treat.
The Eccles cake is a quintessential English pastry, consisting of flaky parcels filled with a spiced mixture of currants, sugar, and candied peel. While modern bakers might use store-bought puff pastry as a shortcut, the essence of the treat lies in its aromatic filling. To recreate the historical flavor, one can use a traditional mixed spice blend, which often includes ground cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, and coriander.
The recipe we are exploring comes from a rare piece of culinary history: The Tea Time Recipe Book by Brown & Polleb, published just after the death of Queen Victoria. This era of baking is characterized by specific terminology and ingredients, such as the use of Zante currants and candied peel. Interestingly, the preparation involves more than just assembly; it requires a delicate touch to seal the pastry rounds and create the signature top cuts.
To prepare these cakes, the pastry is divided into eight pieces, each rolled to roughly four or five inches. A dessert-spoonful of the spiced fruit mixture is placed on each round, accompanied by a small piece of butter and a few drops of water to help the edges adhere. After flattening and rolling the parcels, three or four cuts are made across the top before baking in a hot oven for approximately 20 minutes.
While the technique remains largely the same, the history of these cookbooks often includes references to royal warrants, which can hint at the age and prestige of the publishers. Whether you are a vintage cookbook collector or a casual baker, these small, spiced delights offer a direct, edible connection to the Victorian pantry.
Source: Victorian Era Eccles Cakes Recipe From A 120++ Year-Old Cookbook
