The art of the fishtail: transforming rigid braids into soft updos

How to Do a Fishtail Updo | Braid Hairstyles · 4:09 · Video: Howcast · Watch at the source

In short: A fishtail braid is often seen as a static, structured hairstyle. However, professional techniques allow you to disrupt its geometric precision to create a sophisticated, voluminous updo. By mastering the tension and the transition from French braiding to loosening, you can turn a technical feat into a soft aesthetic.

The foundation of a professional fishtail updo lies in the French fishtail braid. Unlike a standard fishtail, which only involves crossing two sections of hair over each other, the French variation requires integrating hair from the sides as you move down the head. Hairstylist Joy La Rosa emphasizes starting at the very top of the head to ensure the braid remains tight and secure. The process involves dividing a section into two and crossing pieces over one another while simultaneously grabbing small amounts of hair from the outside to incorporate into the braid.

To manage the complexity of the style, a specific structural trick is used: creating a temporary ponytail. Once the hair from the sides is exhausted, the braid is secured at the base of the head with a clear rubber band. This allows the stylist to continue the fishtail pattern on the remaining length without the difficulty of managing the entire head of hair at once. This technique ensures the braid remains consistent in size and tension from the crown to the nape of the neck.

The final transformation from a braid to an updo involves a deliberate 'disruption' of the shape. After securing the braids with small elastic bands, the hair is loosened by removing any temporary plastic holders. The key to achieving a natural, voluminous look is the 'pinch and pull' method. By pinching a small group of hairs—roughly five strands—at the bottom of the braid and pulling them upward, the stylist can slowly shift the braid's position and expand its volume. This creates a softer, less coherent shape that looks effortless rather than overly structured.

Choosing the size of the initial sections is a strategic decision. Larger sections are often preferred for updos because they provide more surface area to manipulate during the loosening phase. By intentionally making the braids slightly less coherent and 'funner' during the final shaping, the stylist achieves a balance between the technical skill of the braid and the organic flow of a modern hairstyle.

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