From Aztec virility to gas mask necessity: the volatile history of sideburns

Cultures · Published 29 September 2026 Swipe more like this →

In short: Once a symbol of rebellion and a target of colonial bans, sideburns have navigated a strange path through history. From the extravagant whiskers of the 19th century to the practical requirements of World War I, these facial features have signaled everything from high status to social defiance.

The term 'sideburns' is actually a 19th-century corruption of 'burnsides,' named after the American Civil War general Ambrose Burnside. Known for a distinctive style that connected thick sideburns to a moustache while leaving the chin clean-shaven, his look helped define an era of facial hair. However, the style's reach extends much further back than the 1800s. Roman statues from the 1st Century depict sideburns, and the Roman emperor Elagabalus is shown with both sideburns and a moustache.

In the 16th century, indigenous men in Mexico and Colombia, such as the Aztecs, wore long, braided sideburns known as 'balcarrotas.' These were prized marks of virile vanity, but they became a flashpoint for conflict when colonial authorities in New Spain banned them, leading to rioting in 1692. By the 19th century, styles grew even more extreme; 'side whiskers' often hung well below the jawline, a precursor to the modern mutton chops.

The 20th century brought dramatic shifts in necessity and subculture. During World War I, the need for a tight seal on gas masks forced men to be clean-shaven, though mustaches were permitted. Later, the 1950s saw a revival through icons like Marlon Brando and Elvis Presley, where sideburns became a tool for 'greasers' and 'rockers' to signal rebellious manliness. By the 1960s and 70s, they transitioned from counterculture symbols to mainstream fashion, appearing in everything from San Francisco's gay club scenes to the rock performances of Neil Young and Lemmy.

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