Why this slippery, toxic fish became a global delicacy and a conservation crisis

Food & Drink · Published 3 October 2026 Swipe more like this →

In short: Eels are elongated, versatile, and surprisingly dangerous. While their blood contains toxic proteins that can harm humans, proper cooking neutralizes the threat. Today, these fish are prized in cuisines from Tokyo to London, yet their popularity has pushed several species to the brink of extinction, sparking urgent environmental warnings.

Eels have long been a culinary staple, consumed in Britain since at least the 8th century. Historically, they were valued for being easy to catch and cook, serving as a reliable food source during religious fasting days. In London, they became a dietary pillar for the city's poor, leading to the rise of specialized pie and mash shops in the 18th century. Similarly, Native American populations in North America historically prepared eels by broiling, stewing, or smoking them, a practice that continued as English colonists arrived and embraced the fish as a familiar comfort food.

The modern eel industry is vast, with Japan alone consuming over 70 percent of the global catch. In Japanese cuisine, freshwater unagi and marine anago are highly sought after, often commanding premium prices. In Hong Kong, costs have reached 1,000 HKD per kilogram, occasionally soaring past 5,000 HKD. Despite this cultural prestige, the environmental cost is severe. The European eel is now listed as Critically Endangered, while the Japanese and American varieties are assessed as Endangered. By 2010, Greenpeace International added these three species to its seafood red list, citing the high risk of unsustainable sourcing.

Conservation efforts are now clashing with commercial interests. In the United Kingdom, eels are classified as a Priority Species under the Post-2010 Biodiversity Framework. Meanwhile, the industry remains lucrative; in 2017, the commercial eel trade in Maine was valued at $12 million. Balancing the historical and cultural significance of eel consumption with the biological reality of these threatened species remains a complex challenge. As demand continues to outstrip supply—a trend observed as early as the 16th century—the future of this ancient food source depends on navigating the tension between tradition and ecological survival.

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