From alcoholic tonic to political weapon: the surprising evolution of the American milkshake

From alcoholic tonic to political weapon: the surprising evolution of the American milkshake
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In short: Originally a medicinal whiskey drink, the milkshake transformed into a symbol of youthful innocence before becoming a modern tool for political protest. Beyond the glass, these aerated treats are highly profitable for restaurants, which capitalize on the high volume of air whipped into every serving to drive significant revenue.

The milkshake’s origins are far from the sweet, frothy treat known today. When the term first appeared in print in 1885, it described an alcoholic whiskey drink, often served as a health tonic alongside eggs. By the turn of the 20th century, the beverage had shifted toward non-alcoholic, wholesome syrups. The iconic addition of ice cream arrived in the early 1900s, and the drink’s texture was revolutionized by the 1911 introduction of the Hamilton Beach Cyclone Drink Mixer. These machines, which featured top-mounted motors, allowed staff to fold air into the mixture, creating the fluffy consistency that remains standard.

The 1920s solidified the milkshake’s place in culture. In 1922, Walgreens employee Ivar "Pop" Coulson famously added two scoops of vanilla ice cream to a malted milk drink, creating the "malt." These drinks became staples of soda fountains and diners, often serving as a visual shorthand in film for purity and youth. Directors like Woody Allen and Joseph L. Mankiewicz have used the milkshake to highlight age gaps or contrast innocence with adult experience. By the 1930s, automation further changed the industry; inventor Earl Prince developed the Multimixer in 1936, a five-spindled machine that could dispense multiple shakes at once, paving the way for the fast-food model.

Today, the milkshake is a massive commercial engine. Because the drink is largely composed of air, it is enormously profitable; in 2006, industry data suggested that 75 percent of the price of an average restaurant shake was profit. However, the drink has also entered the political sphere. During the 2019 UK parliamentary elections, "milkshaking"—the act of throwing a milkshake at a politician—emerged as a protest tactic. The trend became so contentious that the UK's Advertising Standards Authority banned a Burger King advertisement that referenced the practice, ruling that it encouraged anti-social behavior. From a 19th-century tonic to a 21st-century protest symbol, the milkshake remains a uniquely potent cultural artifact.

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