How one chef's obsession with grape yeast redefined American artisan bread
In short: In the late 1980s, Nancy Silverton wasn't just baking; she was conducting a culinary experiment. By using natural yeast from grapes and a grueling two-day fermentation process, she transformed the American palate, turning a simple loaf into a phenomenon that could draw crowds around city blocks.
Nancy Silverton's influence on American baking stems from her dedication to traditional, slow-fermentation methods. After reading about the artisan bakery Acme in Berkeley, California, she began experimenting with recipes that utilized natural yeast harvested from grapes. This process required soaking the fruit in flour and water for several days, followed by a meticulous two-day rise where she hand-shaped every loaf. Her journey began after an epiphany in a college dorm kitchen. She eventually left her studies at Sonoma State University to train formally at Le Cordon Bleu in London.
The effort required to perfect these techniques was immense. Silverton spent six months and hundreds of attempts refining her recipe before achieving the results that would define her career. This dedication helped fuel the success of La Brea Bakery, which was established in 1989 by Silverton and her late husband, Mark Peel, alongside Manfred Krankl. The bakery's popularity was so intense that by Thanksgiving in 1990, customers were lining up around city blocks just to purchase her bread. The bakery was originally located in a space adjoining the Campanile restaurant. This venture was a collaborative effort between Silverton, Peel, and Manfred Krankl.
Silverton's impact extends beyond the oven. While she is widely recognized for popularizing sourdough and artisan breads in the United States, her versatility is equally notable. She has served as a pastry chef for Wolfgang Puck at Spago and has been honored with the James Beard Foundation Lifetime Achievement award. Her career has spanned from the high-pressure kitchens of Los Angeles to becoming a culinary icon whose work has been described as having 'virtually redefined what dessert is.' Beyond her bread, she is known as the 'godmother of grilled cheese sandwiches'. She has also been recognized with a Michelin star for her work at Osteria Mozza.
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- Summary by Intellect · source: Nancy Silverton
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