The 1670 Pumpkin Pie Recipe That Looks Nothing Like Your Modern Thanksgiving Dessert
In short: Forget the smooth, spiced custard you know. The original 1670 recipe for pumpion pie, found in The Queene-Like Closet, was a savory-sweet fried dish. It featured pumpkin slices dipped in egg and herbs, layered with sharp apples, raisins, currants, and sherry. It is a culinary relic from a different era.
The 1670 recipe for pumpion pie, sourced from The Queene-Like Closet, reveals a preparation method far removed from the modern, pureed pumpkin custard. Instead of a smooth filling, the dish begins by peeling and slicing a pumpkin into thin pieces, roughly 1/4 inch thick. These slices are then dipped into a mixture of beaten eggs and finely shredded herbs before being fried in butter, lard, or vegetable oil until soft.
Once the pumpkin is fried, it is combined with a mixture of butter, raisins, currants, sugar, and sack—a type of sherry. This mixture is poured over a base of sharp apples, such as Granny Smith, which are arranged at the bottom of a prepared pie crust. The pie is then baked at 425°F for 20 minutes, followed by 40 to 50 minutes at 375°F until the filling bubbles. The final touch involves scattering two tablespoons of butter over the top to melt as it cools.
This historical approach highlights how drastically flavor profiles and culinary techniques have evolved over centuries. The inclusion of fresh herbs like rosemary, parsley, and thyme, combined with the acidity of sharp apples and the sweetness of dried fruit, creates a complex, textured profile. It serves as a reminder that the pumpkin pie of the 17th century was a far more rustic, multi-layered experience than the standardized, spiced dessert that dominates contemporary holiday tables today.
The process requires careful attention to detail, particularly in the frying stage, where the pumpkin should not exceed three layers in the pan to ensure even cooking. By following these specific steps, one can recreate a dish that reflects the domestic culinary practices of the 1670s, offering a unique window into the past through the lens of historical gastronomy.
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Sources
- Summary by Intellect · source: "Pumpion" Pie from 1670 | The History of Pumpkin Pie
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