Why the tomato was once feared as a deadly poison for Europe's elite
In short: The tomato has traveled from New World origins to a controversial status in European kitchens and even the US Supreme Court. Once suspected of being toxic, this ingredient eventually found its home in Italian cuisine. We explore its sordid past and recreate a classic 1773 recipe for stuffed tomatoes.
The tomato's journey into the culinary mainstream was far from straightforward. Upon its arrival from the New World, the fruit faced significant suspicion in Europe, where it was famously labeled as poisonous and avoided by the elite. This reputation persisted for years, creating a barrier to its adoption in many kitchens. Despite these early fears, the tomato eventually overcame its deadly reputation, finding a permanent and celebrated place in Italian cooking.
The recipe for Pomodori Farciti all’Erbette, or tomatoes stuffed with herbs, originates from the 1773 book Il Cuoco Galante by Vincenzo Corrado. This historical dish highlights the versatility of the ingredient, pairing it with a savory mixture of parsley, onion, sorrel, ham, egg yolk, and grated provatura. The preparation process involves hollowing out fresh, medium-sized tomatoes and filling them with this herb-rich paste before frying them in olive oil.
Modern cooks can still replicate this 18th-century technique by following specific temperature guidelines. To ensure the egg filling is thoroughly cooked, the stuffed tomatoes should be placed in an oven at 350°F or 175°C for 10 to 12 minutes. The goal is to reach an internal temperature of 165°F or 74°C. This process transforms the humble tomato, once feared as a source of poison, into a sophisticated dish that reflects the culinary ingenuity of the era.
Beyond the kitchen, the tomato's history remains marked by legal and cultural debates, including its classification as a vegetable versus a fruit, which famously reached the US Supreme Court. Whether viewed as a botanical fruit or a culinary vegetable, the tomato's transition from a misunderstood, feared novelty to a staple ingredient remains one of the most fascinating stories in the history of global food.
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Sources
- Summary by Intellect · source: The Poisonous History of Tomatoes | Pomodori Farciti all’Erbette (1773)
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