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The legendary princess who smuggled an empire in her hair

For centuries, the secret to silk was a closely guarded Chinese monopoly. But a legendary princess allegedly bypassed the borders of the Buddhist kingdom of Khotan by hiding silkworm eggs and mulberry seeds inside her elaborate headdress, forever changing the landscape of ancient global trade.

The legend, dating to approximately AD 600-700, tells of a princess from an eastern kingdom who used a political marriage to introduce sericulture to Khotan. By smuggling the essential components of silk production—silkworm eggs and white mulberry tree (Morus alba) seeds—within her headdress, she established a new industry in what is now northwest China. This act of matrimonial smuggling was so successful that she eventually achieved a near-saintly status, her wardrobe perpetually refreshed by the very industry she introduced.

The biology of this trade is incredibly delicate. The domesticated silkworm, Bombyx mori, has been bred to be wingless and is entirely dependent on a strict diet of mulberry leaves. While the legend of the princess highlights a later era of movement, recent archaeological discoveries in Uzbekistan suggest the spread of these specific silkworms may be much older than the famous Silk Road. At the Sapalli Tepe site along the Surkhan-Darya River, researchers found well-preserved cocoons that date back to roughly 2,000 BCE.

This discovery by a Chinese and Uzbek research team pushes the presence of East Asian Bombyx-mulberry sericulture in southern Central Asia back nearly 2,000 years earlier than previously assumed. While the Silk Road is famous for transporting luxury goods like porcelain and glassware between the Roman and Han empires, these Bronze Age finds prove that the specialized technology of Bombyx mori cultivation had already reached Uzbekistan long before the historical trade routes were established.

Source: Smuggling Domesticated Silkworms along the Silk Roads | Curator's Corner S9 Ep8 | The Silk Princess

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