Why the production of veal has become one of the most controversial agricultural practices.

Nature · Published 29 September 2026 Swipe more like this →

In short: Veal is the meat of young calves, often surplus males from the dairy industry. While prized in Mediterranean cuisine, the industry faces intense scrutiny over historical confinement methods. Today, the sector is undergoing a significant shift, moving away from restrictive crates toward group housing and improved animal welfare standards.

Veal production primarily utilizes male dairy calves, which are surplus to the dairy industry's needs because they do not lactate. Historically, producers used close-confinement systems known as veal crates to limit the animal's movement. The rationale was that exercise made the meat tougher and redder, while dietary restrictions—specifically limiting iron—were used to maintain a pale, ivory color. These practices, which often included tethering and isolation, were designed to maximize market value but drew widespread condemnation from animal welfare organizations.

Critics have long argued that these conditions are inhumane. Calves in crates were often unable to turn around, walk, or perform natural behaviors like grooming or social interaction. This deprivation led to abnormal oral stereotypies, such as tongue rolling, and increased susceptibility to disease. Furthermore, restricting solid feed to maintain a milk-only diet distorted rumen development, predisposing calves to chronic indigestion and infectious enteritis. By 2004, the USDA even raised concerns regarding the potential for illegal drug use in the industry, highlighting the intense pressure for reform.

The landscape of veal farming has changed dramatically over the last two decades. The European Union banned veal crates in 2007, and similar legislative efforts followed in the United States. By 2017, the American Veal Association successfully transitioned all its members to tether-free pens, ensuring calves are housed in groups by ten weeks of age. While the industry continues to face ethical challenges, the shift toward group housing and more natural rearing environments reflects a broader move to address the welfare concerns that once defined the sector.

Today, consumers can find various types of veal, including grain-fed and 'rose' veal, which are raised with fewer dietary restrictions and more access to solid food. These alternatives often result in darker meat and lower mortality rates. As the industry evolves, the focus has moved toward balancing the economic necessity of utilizing dairy bull calves with the growing public demand for humane treatment and transparent farming practices.

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