Hakodate: The Japanese port city built on a sandbar and a resting cow
In short: Perched on a tombolo—a sandbar connecting a former island to Hokkaido—Hakodate is a city defined by its unique geography and turbulent history. From its origins as a fifteenth-century fishing village to its role as a gateway for international trade and civil war, this port city remains a cultural anomaly.
Founded in 1454 by Kono Kaganokami Masamichi, Hakodate began as a manor house in the fishing village of Usukeshi. Its strategic location on the Oshima Peninsula made it a focal point for trade and conflict, particularly between the Ainu people and armed merchants. By 1854, Hakodate became the first Japanese port opened to foreign trade following the Convention of Kanagawa. This designation transformed the town into a cosmopolitan hub, hosting foreign consulates and introducing influences like Eastern Orthodox Christianity to Japan in 1861.
The city’s history is marked by dramatic shifts, including the short-lived Republic of Ezo established by Tokugawa shogunate rebels in 1868. The subsequent Battle of Hakodate in 1869 saw the defeat of these secessionists and the surrender of the famous star-shaped Goryōkaku fort to the Emperor. Later, in 1934, a massive fire destroyed two-thirds of the city’s buildings, leading to a significant population decline. Today, the city is known for its distinct culinary identity, including its signature salt-based ramen and the peculiar 'dancing squid' dish, where soy sauce triggers a cadaveric spasm in the seafood.
Geographically, the city is overlooked by Mount Hakodate, a volcanic formation nicknamed Gagyūzan, or 'Mount Cow's Back,' for its resemblance to a resting bovine. The city’s modern connectivity was revolutionized in 2016 with the opening of the Hokkaido Shinkansen, which utilizes the undersea Seikan Tunnel to link Honshu to the region. While the population peaked at 320,154 in 1980, it has since entered a gradual decline. Despite this, Hakodate preserves its legacy through its historic missionary churches, the bustling Morning Market, and the annual Port Festival, where residents perform the traditional 'Squid Dance' in the streets.
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Sources
- Summary by Intellect · source: Hakodate
- Also: Wikidata — Hakodate · CC0
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