Master the lapped zipper technique for a professional and clean garment finish
In short: Installing a lapped zipper requires precision and the right equipment. By using a specialized zipper foot, you can guide the fabric smoothly over the teeth to create a secure, hidden closure. Learn the essential steps to align your fabric, manage seam allowances, and navigate the metal stopper without breaking needles.
The lapped zipper is a classic sewing technique designed to conceal the zipper mechanism beneath a fold of fabric. The process begins by installing a zipper foot on your machine, which allows the zipper teeth to sit beneath the presser foot's raised channel. For the initial side, you align the teeth to the right of the foot and sew a straight line down to the bottom, finishing with a backstitch to secure the seam. Throughout this process, it is vital to remove pins as you approach the needle to avoid damage.
Once the first side is attached, you create the overlap by folding the fabric back by five-eighths of an inch, which serves as your seam allowance. This folded edge is pinned over the zipper tape, ensuring the closure remains flat and concealed. When sewing this top layer, you must reposition the zipper foot to the right, placing the zipper teeth to the left. As you sew from the top down, you can guide the fabric by feeling the zipper tape beneath your fingers, or by using a marking tool to draw a guide on the fabric surface.
Navigating the bottom of the zipper requires caution to protect your equipment. You must stop just past the metal stopper, as sewing over it will break your needle. With the needle left in the down position, you lift the presser foot to pivot the fabric, allowing you to sew a short horizontal line across the bottom to create a clean, professional finish. If you are uncomfortable with machine-stitching this final turn, you can complete these few stitches by hand. Once finished, a quick press with an iron ensures the lapped zipper lies perfectly flat against the garment.
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Sources
- Summary by Intellect · source: How to Sew a Lapped Zipper | Sewing Machine
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