The two-cornered hat that defined an era of empire and ceremony

Cultures · Published 3 October 2026 Swipe more like this →

In short: Born from the three-cornered tricorne, the bicorne became the definitive silhouette of the Napoleonic Wars. Once a standard for European militaries, this distinctive headgear has survived centuries of fashion shifts to remain a staple of high-stakes diplomacy and royal ceremony today.

The bicorne, or 'two-cornered' hat, rose to prominence during the 1790s as European militaries adopted it for headgear. Descended from the tricorne, the original black bicorne featured a broad brim with the front and rear halves pinned together to create a semi-circular fan shape. These hats often displayed a cockade in national colors at the front. As the style evolved, the hat became more triangular and pointed, with the ends often worn at the right side, a style known in English as the 'cocked hat'.

The way the hat was worn changed significantly over time. During the 1790s, it was commonly worn 'athwart' or side-to-side. However, from 1800, most armies and navies shifted to wearing it 'fore-and-aft', or front-to-back, as the front peak flattened out. While many military uses faded after World War I, the bicorne survived in specialized roles. It remained a part of naval officer full dress through World War II and continues to be used by senior officers in several navies.

Today, the bicorne persists in highly specific ceremonial contexts. In the United Kingdom, it is worn by certain office-holders like the Constable of the Tower and the Major-General commanding the Household Division. It remains a fixture in diplomatic uniforms for ambassadors in countries like Britain, France, Sweden, Belgium, and Spain. Even in Java, the 'mancungan'—a Javanese version of the cocked hat—is still used for special palace ceremonies, reflecting Western influence from the reign of Sultan Hamengkubuwana IV.

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