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Cultures

Cosmetics once poisoned wearers for pale skin

The Greek root kosmos meant order and ornament—technique of dress, not just lipstick. Renaissance ceruse and white lead rouge could swell eyes, rot teeth, and kill. A safer industry emerged only when nineteenth-century chemistry stripped hazardous compounds from the vanity table.

Cosmetics are substances applied to cleanse, beautify, or alter appearance without changing body structure. The term derives from Greek kosmetikē technē, skilled arrangement, from kosmos meaning order and ornament. Social speech often says makeup, but the category legally includes cleansers, perfumes, teeth-whitening strips, and hair products. The United States FDA defines cosmetics as appearance-altering materials excluding pure soap.

Use stretches back millennia. Ancient Egyptians and Sumerians applied cosmetics; medieval Europeans whitened faces and rouged cheeks despite periodic moral disapproval. Early recipes mixed harmless berries with dangerous chemistry. Ceruse, or white lead, appeared across cultures including Japanese oshiroi; nineteenth-century red-and-white lead powders caused eye inflammation, weakened enamel, blackened skin, and death with heavy use. The mascara Lash Lure blinded users in the early twentieth century.

Commercial expansion followed safer formulas. In 1882, English actress Lillie Langtry became the first celebrity to endorse a commercial product, lending her name to Pears face powders. Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein, and Max Factor built the United States market in the 1910s; Revlon and Estée Lauder joined around World War II. By the twenty-first century cosmetics had become a multibillion-dollar global industry; L'Oréal, founded by Eugène Schueller in 1909, ranked as the world's largest cosmetics company as of 2016.

Regulation and culture shifted together. The European Union and other agencies impose strict rules; United States products need no FDA pre-approval though safety is monitored. Some jurisdictions ban animal testing. Feminist protesters at the 1968 Miss America pageant threw cosmetics into a Freedom Trash Can, calling them instruments of enforced femininity—while men increasingly use makeup as stigma weakens in countries such as the United States.

Source: Cosmetics

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