How a Dutch designer uses 3D printing to redefine haute couture
In short: Iris van Herpen does not just sew fabric; she sculpts with technology. By merging traditional craftsmanship with scientific innovation, she has transformed the runway into a laboratory, using everything from laser-cut acrylic to electron microscope imagery to create garments that defy the limits of textile.
Born in 1984, Dutch designer Iris van Herpen has spent her career bridging the gap between the organic and the synthetic. Following her 2006 ArtEZ University of the Arts graduation, she refined her craft via placements with Claudy Jongstra and Alexander McQueen, then started her namesake brand in 2007. The 2007 Amsterdam Fashion Week hosted her initial 'Chemical Crows' collection, marking the emergence of a talent who later joined the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture as a guest.
Van Herpen is a pioneer of additive manufacturing in fashion, being among the first to utilize 3D printing for garment construction. In collaboration with the Belgian firm Materialise, she famously presented 3D-printed dresses that functioned in both static and flexible forms. Her material palette is famously unconventional, incorporating silicones, resin, iron filings, and even laser-cut strips of black acrylic—the latter used for a custom dress worn by Lady Gaga in 2012 to celebrate the launch of the perfume Fame.
Her work is deeply multidisciplinary, drawing inspiration from architecture and hard science. She has collaborated with architects like Philip Beesley and scientists such as Neri Oxman, and her research has sparked dialogues with institutions like CERN and MIT. This fusion of art and technology has earned her significant accolades, including the European Commission's STARTS Prize in 2016 and the Johannes Vermeer Award in 2017. Her sculptural pieces have been showcased in prestigious venues ranging from the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York to the Victoria & Albert Museum in London.
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- Summary by Intellect · source: Iris van Herpen
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