Why 17th-century aristocrats stuffed rice pudding into animal intestines
In short: In the late 1600s, a luxury dessert looked more like a sausage. Using Robert May's 1658 culinary guide, we discover how historical recipes used animal casings to create unique textures, offering a direct, edible link to the dining habits of the English aristocracy.
To understand the culinary landscape of the late 1600s, one must look to Robert May's 'The Accomplished Cook'. First published in 1660 in England, this work is considered a pivotal text in the evolution of cooking. May's recipes provide a window into the lives of the aristocracy, revealing a preference for complex, highly seasoned dishes that differ significantly from modern expectations.
One particularly striking recipe involves preparing rice pudding inside a sausage casing. The process requires boiling half a pound of rice in three pints of milk with mace until the liquid is absorbed. After straining the rice, the mixture is combined with six eggs—though the recipe suggests setting aside three of the whites—half a pound of sugar, a quarter pint of rose-water, a pound of currants, and a pound of finely shredded beef suet. The mixture is seasoned with nutmeg, cinnamon, and salt.
The final step involves preparing the vessel: a small gut from a hog, sheep, or beef must be thoroughly dried and cleaned. These casings are filled three-quarters full, cut to a length of one foot, and tied at both ends. They are then boiled in water for fifteen minutes. While this method may seem unusual today, using animal casings for various foods was a common practice during this era.
Exploring these historic recipes allows us to taste history through the lens of the past. While some pages of May's original work were lost over time—specifically those containing illustrations for pie decoration—the surviving text remains a vital resource for understanding how the flavors and techniques of the 17th century shaped the future of gastronomy.
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Sources
- Summary by Intellect · source: 335 Year Old Rice Puddings In Guts Recipe - Old Cookbook Show - Not So Ordinary Sausage
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