The savory and expensive world of 18th-century ice
Forget everything you know about modern dessert. In the 1700s, ice cream was a luxury status symbol, often savory, and priced by the rarity of its fruit. From parmesan-infused creams to pineapple-shaped sculptures, the era of 'ice' was far more complex than a simple sweet treat.
In 18th-century England and Europe, confectionery shops served a wealthy clientele, acting as much as luxury boutiques as sweet shops. These establishments didn't just sell sugar-based treats like sugar plums and wafers; they also rented expensive porcelain and glass tableware. The 'ice'—as it was often called—represented the most elite refreshment available, with prices fluctuating wildly based on the cost of ingredients.
The economic divide was clearly visible in the cost of fruit-based ices. In 1764, trade cards from London confectioner Thomas Street reveal that a pint of strawberry ice cost 3 shillings and 9 pence. However, a pint of pineapple ice cream cost more than double that amount, at 7 shillings and 6 pence. This disparity existed because luxury fruits like pineapple were significantly more expensive than common garden varieties.
Confectioners also used artistry to enhance the illusion of luxury. Using pewter moulds from makers like Thomas Chamberlain, they could create fruit-shaped ices. A common technique for pineapple ice involved using a pine-cone-shaped mould and then manually attaching real leaves salvaged from the fruit to the top, creating a convincing 'pineapple in ice.'
While we often think of ice cream as purely sweet, historical recipes suggest a broader palate. For instance, a recipe for 'Parmesan Iced Cream' dating back to the 18th century offers a savory alternative that pairs well with fruit compote. The era was defined by this intersection of high-end culinary technique and seasonal luxury.
Source: Ice Cream In The 18th Century?
