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India’s chilli heat arrived from Mexico

By three thousand years before the Common Era, Indian growers already raised turmeric, cardamom, black pepper, and mustard. The chilli that now defines many curries, though, is a sixteenth-century Portuguese import from Mexico. What tastes timeless is often a layered archive of Indus farms, Mughal courts, and New World crops.

Indian food is not one ethnic cuisine but a national umbrella over regional kitchens shaped by religion and custom. Farming reached the Indus Valley around 7000 BCE with wheat and barley; sesame and humped cattle were domesticated locally. Three millennia before the Common Era, growers there were already taking turmeric, cardamom, peppercorns, and mustard from the fields. Hindus often avoid beef, Muslims pork, and Jains keep strict lacto-vegetarian diets. Staples include pearl millet, rice, whole-wheat atta, and dals from masoor, toor, urad, and moong. Madhur Jaffrey likens India’s state cuisines to Europe’s national ones; Alan Davidson still sees unity in cereal-plus-spiced pulse plates and widespread vegetarianism.

Technique is labor-heavy on simple burners and pressure cookers. One hallmark method fries an onion-garlic-ginger paste, browns meat or vegetables in that oil, then adds liquid stepwise. Another—bagar or tadka—blooms spices in hot ghee or oil and pours them over cooked dal. Regional fats differ: peanut oil in the north and west, mustard in the east, coconut and sesame in the south. Mughal rule fused Persian and local cooking into pilau, biryani, and kebabs. Portuguese and British rule added baking and New World tomato, potato, peanut, squash, and chilli; the British brought cauliflower in 1822.

Geography writes the menu. North Indian thalis lean on chapati, dal, and dum pukht sealed pots; Kashmiri wazwan banquets pile meat and skip dal. Gujarati Jain influence keeps many meals vegetarian; Goan pork vindaloo mixes Portuguese and Indian lines. Bengal favors fish and sandesh; the south steams dishes and leans on coconut, with Karnataka balancing rice, wheat, and ragi. Festival foods and fasting rules further specialize the calendar. Abroad, Punjabi and Bangladeshi restaurateurs shaped the global "Indian" image through tandoori and curry, while Calcutta’s Hakka Chinese community forged a spice-forward Indian-Chinese fusion in the nineteenth century.

Source: Indian cuisine

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