Mastering the Texas brisket: how to navigate the dreaded stall

Texas barbecue brisket, charcoal or gas grill · 11:20 · Video: Adam Ragusea · Watch at the source

In short: Achieving a perfect Texas-style brisket requires more than just heat. Whether you use charcoal or gas, the secret lies in managing smoke flow and temperature stability to overcome the moment when cooking seemingly grinds to a halt.

The foundation of a great brisket starts with preparation. After trimming excess fat from the cap, the meat should be generously coated in a blend of salt, pepper, and garlic powder. For the best results, let the seasoned beef rest in the refrigerator overnight, or begin the smoking process immediately. The goal is to maintain a steady ambient temperature between 225-250ºF (107-121ºC) throughout the cook.

If using charcoal, create a single line of fuel by placing lit coals at one end and unlit coals at the other, using bricks or a drip pan to hold them in place. Adding hardwood chunks provides the necessary smoke. For gas grills, place hardwood chunks—some of which can be pre-soaked in water to slow burning—atop the flavor bars. In both methods, position the meat away from the direct heat source and ensure the grill vents force smoke to pass over the meat before escaping.

The most critical phase is 'the stall.' After roughly three to four hours, once a dark brown bark has formed, the internal temperature will plateau near 160ºF (71ºC). At this stage, the meat has absorbed its maximum smoke flavor. To continue cooking and retain moisture, wrap the brisket tightly in aluminum foil or traditional peach pink butcher paper. This allows the meat to braise until it reaches an internal temperature of approximately 200ºF (93ºC).

Once the meat is fork-tender, allow it to rest like a standard roast before slicing against the grain. To honor the tradition, serve the slices simply with accompaniments like pickles and onions.

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