The volcanic secret behind one of Portugal’s rarest cheeses

Food & Drink · Published 30 October 2026 Swipe more like this →

In short: In the Azores islands, a specific cheese relies on more than just high-quality milk. To achieve its unique profile, cheesemakers draw mineral water from dormant volcanoes—a substance known as "sour water." This highlights how geography and geology can dictate the flavor of our most traditional foods.

The production of this rare Portuguese cheese is a study in geographical specificity. It utilizes milk sourced from cows that graze freely on the Azores islands, combined with mineral water drawn directly from volcanic springs. This "sour water" provides a distinct chemical foundation that differentiates the final product from standard varieties produced elsewhere.

Historically, cheese making was less of an industrial science and more of a localized art form. Because humans lacked a deep understanding of microbiology and chemistry for centuries, different varieties emerged primarily by accident. Each locality developed its own style based on whatever specific conditions were available—unique air temperatures, humidity levels, local molds, and, crucially, the specific milk sources and water minerals found in that immediate environment.

These regional variations were often closely guarded secrets passed down through generations. It wasn't until modern scientific knowledge allowed for the precise control of lactic-acid–producing bacteria, curdling, and ripening that cheese became a uniform science. However, the use of volcanic mineral water serves as a reminder of the "accidental" origins of many cheeses: where nature provides the unique ingredients, humans simply refine the craft.

At its core, cheese making remains a sophisticated method of food preservation through fermentation. By removing a major part of the water from fresh fluid milk while retaining solids, producers extend storage life. Whether using volcanic springs or standard minerals, the fundamental goal remains the same: transforming four basic ingredients—milk, microorganisms, rennet, and salt—into a stable, flavorful preserve.

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