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Europe’s roof outside the Caucasus still has two owners

Mont Blanc rises 4,807.3 metres on the Franco-Italian border—the highest peak in Europe outside the Caucasus, Europe’s second-most prominent mountain after Elbrus, and the world’s eleventh by prominence. France and Italy have long disputed who owns the very summit.

The Mont Blanc massif straddles France, Italy, and Switzerland, shedding water to Ferret and Veny valleys on the Italian side and Montjoie and Arve valleys on the French. Courmayeur, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, and Chamonix—host of the first Winter Olympics—ring the base. An 11.6-kilometre road tunnel built between 1957 and 1965 links the countries beneath the range; a cable car crosses via Col du Géant.

A late Palaeozoic Variscan granite batholith punched through gneiss and mica schist; the summit sits on that contact, later sheared again in the Alpine orogeny and carved by glaciers. Venance Payot’s 1873 mineral catalogue listed ninety types; at least sixty-eight distinct species are recognised across the wider massif today. Summit ice stays near −20 °C; Chamonix at about 1,030 metres gets roughly 1,020 mm of rain yearly while Col du Midi at 3,500 metres takes about 3,100 mm.

Pierre Martel’s 1744 Chamonix map first printed the name Mont Blanc. Horace-Bénédict de Saussure began observing from Chamonix in 1760 and climbed with guide Jean-Laurent Jordaney from 1774. Under Charlemagne it was the Frankish Empire’s highest mountain and remained the Holy Roman Empire’s roof until 1792. Jacques Balmat and the doctor Michel-Gabriel Paccard made the first recorded ascent on 8 August 1786, an exploit Saussure had sponsored and one usually taken as the birth of modern mountaineering; Marie Paradis became the first woman on top in 1808. Most climbers today take two days on the Goûter Route.

The border quarrel is concrete: Italy says the line follows the watershed and splits the summit, while France, citing an 1865 survey by army cartographer Captain Mieulet, places roughly 65 hectares around the top wholly on its side. An observatory built on the ice cap in 1893 recorded the peak's coldest temperature, −43 °C, but began leaning by 1906 and was abandoned once a crevasse opened beneath it. Two Air India jets crashed on the mountain, in 1950 and 1966, and a truck fire in the tunnel in 1999 killed 39 people. GPS surveys in 2002 put the shifting snow dome at 4,807.40 metres.

Source: Mont Blanc

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