The iridescent sea snail that became a Māori treasure and a global black market

The iridescent sea snail that became a Māori treasure and a global black market
Image: Intellect (generated)

In short: Pāua are more than just edible sea snails found in New Zealand waters. These marine molluscs, prized for their vibrant, multi-coloured shells, hold deep cultural significance as taonga for Māori. Today, they face intense pressure from poaching and overfishing, driving a complex industry of aquaculture and strict conservation enforcement.

Pāua, known globally as abalone, are large marine gastropods belonging to the family Haliotidae. In New Zealand, four distinct species exist, including the well-known Haliotis iris. These molluscs inhabit shallow, rocky coastal waters, where they use a powerful muscular foot to cling to rocks against strong tidal surges. Their life cycle is marked by distinct habitat shifts: juveniles reside in the intertidal zone under stones, while adults move into deeper subtidal waters. Their diet evolves from plankton and diatoms in their larval and juvenile stages to macroalgae as they mature.

For Māori, pāua are considered taonga, or treasures, serving as both a traditional food source and a vital material for arts and crafts. Historically, the shells were used to create fishing lures, as the iridescent surface reflects light to attract fish. In carving, they represent the eyes of ancestors, symbolically linking the living to the stars. While early British settlers in New Zealand initially disliked the taste of pāua, the shells were highly coveted by 19th-century jewellers. By the 1970s, an international market for the meat emerged, leading to a significant decline in wild populations.

The scarcity of wild pāua has fueled a massive global black market, making poaching a persistent issue in New Zealand. To combat this, the Ministry for Primary Industries enforces strict regulations, including daily catch limits and minimum size requirements. Illegal harvesting can lead to heavy fines, the seizure of equipment, and even imprisonment. In response to these pressures, a growing aquaculture industry has emerged since the 1980s. Today, fourteen farms across New Zealand use selective breeding and controlled tank environments to produce pāua for meat, shells, and even cultured pearls, helping to meet the high global demand while alleviating pressure on wild stocks.

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