The myth of the saddle-tenderized steak and the true origins of raw beef
In short: Steak tartare is often linked to Mongol warriors tenderizing meat under their saddles, but this story is a historical fabrication. In reality, the dish evolved from 19th-century European culinary trends and a misunderstanding of tartar sauce. Today, it remains a global delicacy despite persistent concerns regarding raw meat safety.
The enduring legend of the Tartars—a term for Turco-Mongol warriors—tenderizing beef beneath their saddles was popularized by the 13th-century chronicler Jean de Joinville. He used the tale to paint the Mongols as uncivilized, despite never meeting them. Historians suggest the story likely stems from a misinterpretation of a practical practice: Mongol horsemen placed raw meat under saddles to soothe equine sores. By day's end, the meat would be sweat-drenched and inedible, far from a soldier's meal.
The modern dish has more grounded origins in the late 19th century. The Hamburg steak, a hand-minced raw beef dish served with onions, became a staple in New York port restaurants and hospitals by 1887. In Europe, the dish was initially called steak à l'Americaine. The name 'tartare' likely emerged from a confusion with tartar sauce, a condiment often served with the meat. By the 1938 edition of Larousse Gastronomique, the definition had shifted to the raw beef and egg yolk preparation we recognize today.
While steak tartare is a high-end staple in the United States, it faces scrutiny due to pathogens like Toxoplasma gondii and Taenia saginata. The USDA advises against eating raw ground beef because the grinding process spreads surface bacteria into the meat's interior. However, the World Health Organization notes that risks are low when fresh meat and strict hygiene are prioritized. Globally, raw beef remains a cultural constant, from Ethiopian kitfo and Italian carne cruda to the German-influenced Hackepeter in Brazil and the cannibal sandwich of Wisconsin.
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