Once a penal colony, this Indonesian island is now a sanctuary for rare birds

Once a penal colony, this Indonesian island is now a sanctuary for rare birds
Image: Intellect (generated)

In short: Known as the island of priests, Nusa Penida has a history as complex as its geography. From being a destination for political exiles and criminals to becoming a vital refuge for the critically endangered Bali starling, this rugged island near Bali continues to evolve far beyond its former reputation.

The name Nusa Penida translates from Balinese as island of priests, yet its history is marked by conflict and isolation. Early records from 914 AD on the Belanjong pillar detail military expeditions by the first Balinese King, Sri Kesari Warmadewa, to conquer the island. For centuries, the local population resisted such incursions, maintaining their independence until the second half of the 17th century when the Gelgel Dynasty finally conquered the territory. The island’s reputation shifted significantly over time; by 1900, a Dutch map labeled it Bandit Island, reflecting its use by the Klungkung Kingdom as a place to deport political opponents, criminals, and those accused of practicing black magic.

Today, the island is defined by its unique cultural and ecological identity. The local people speak a distinct dialect, Basa Nosa, which is largely unintelligible to mainland Balinese speakers and shares linguistic roots with the Bali Aga, the island's aboriginal population. Administratively, the district encompasses Nusa Penida, Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Ceningan, and eleven smaller islands, with a population that reached an estimated 65,820 by 2024. The landscape is notably drier than neighboring Bali, characterized by hilly terrain that reaches a maximum altitude of 524 metres.

Ecologically, the island serves as a critical bird sanctuary. In 2006, local villages codified bird protection into traditional regulations known as awig-awig. This initiative proved transformative for the Bali starling, a bird endemic to Bali that had dwindled to fewer than 10 individuals in the wild by 2005. Following a rehabilitation program by the Friends of Nature, People and Forests, which released 64 cage-bred birds, the population surged to over 100 by 2009. The island's karst environment provides abundant food and shelter, making it an ideal habitat for the species to recover away from the pressures of the mainland.

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