A Bangkok temple's rise from near-abandonment to the center of a national political storm

Countries & Cities · Published 15 October 2026 Swipe more like this →

In short: Established in 1610, Wat Paknam Bhasicharoen transformed from a crumbling, nearly empty site into a prosperous hub of meditation and education. Yet, its influence recently placed it at the heart of a high-stakes struggle over the leadership of the Thai monastic community and the future of Buddhist governance.

Wat Paknam Bhasicharoen, situated in Bangkok's Phasi Charoen district, was founded in 1610 during the Ayutthaya period. By the early twentieth century, the temple had fallen into severe disrepair and lacked an abbot. Its fortunes shifted dramatically in 1916 when Luang Pu Sodh Candasaro was appointed to lead it. Under his guidance, the temple grew from a small group of thirteen monks into a thriving center housing five hundred monks and hundreds of mae chi, or nuns. Luang Pu Sodh’s meditation methods and his establishment of a Pali studies school in 1950 cemented the temple's reputation as a leading institution.

Following Luang Pu Sodh’s death in 1959, Somdet Chuang Varapuñño eventually became abbot. Under his tenure, the temple expanded its international reach and completed a massive stupa, the Maharatchamongkhon, in 2012. However, Somdet Chuang’s career became entangled in political controversy when he was nominated as Supreme Patriarch in 2016. His appointment was stalled by a junta-backed reform panel, which questioned his relationship with other prominent monks and accused him of negligence regarding financial investigations. These tensions were exacerbated by the temple's association with the Maha Nikaya fraternity, which historically faced friction with the government-preferred Dhammayuttika fraternity.

The conflict culminated in 2017 when the Thai government amended the Monastic Act to change the appointment process for the Supreme Patriarch. This legislative shift allowed the nomination of Somdet Chuang to be withdrawn, effectively ending his path to the position. Despite the political turmoil and accusations of tax fraud regarding a vintage car donated to the temple's museum—charges that were later dropped due to lack of evidence—Wat Paknam remains a significant site. Today, it continues its charitable work, maintains a large community of monastics, and serves as a popular destination for international tourists drawn by its monumental art and history.

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