The rise and fall of a remote island restaurant that promised the impossible
In short: The Willows Inn was once a global destination, drawing diners to a tiny Washington island for purportedly hyperlocal cuisine. Yet, behind the meticulous service and foraged ingredients lay a darker reality of labor disputes, systemic abuse, and claims that the restaurant's signature dishes were sourced from common supermarkets.
Established in 1910 as a modest beach resort, the Willows Inn on Lummi Island underwent a radical transformation in 2010. After hiring chef Blaine Wetzel, a former protégé of René Redzepi at Noma, the inn pivoted to an ultra-exclusive, chef-driven model. By 2011, it was hailed by The New York Times as a destination worth a plane trip. The menu, which grew from five courses to an 18-course tasting experience, featured ingredients supposedly foraged or grown on the island, such as seaweeds, beach plants, and local shellfish. At its peak, the restaurant garnered prestigious accolades, including James Beard Foundation awards and a top ranking from Opinionated About Dining in 2017.
However, the inn's reputation collapsed following a 2021 exposé in The New York Times. Former employees alleged that the restaurant frequently passed off commercial ingredients—including Costco chickens and supermarket produce—as local island fare. Beyond the culinary deception, the report detailed a toxic workplace culture characterized by verbal abuse, intimidation, and sexual harassment. While Wetzel denied the substance of these allegations, the restaurant faced significant legal fallout. It had already settled a 2017 class-action lawsuit regarding wage theft and labor violations, and a subsequent amended lawsuit involving 137 employees was settled for $1.37 million.
The controversy proved fatal to the business. In November 2022, the Willows Inn permanently closed its doors. The owners, Tim and Marcia McEvoy, donated the property, valued at $2 million, to a homelessness ministry. The inn’s meteoric rise and scandalous decline eventually served as one of the inspirations for the 2022 satirical horror film The Menu, which depicts a similarly isolated, high-stakes destination restaurant. The story of the Willows Inn remains a cautionary tale about the gap between the curated image of artisanal perfection and the often harsh realities of the high-end hospitality industry.
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Sources
- Summary by Intellect · source: Willows Inn
- Also: Wikidata — Willows Inn · CC0
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