How a royal's midnight blue lounge jacket became the global tuxedo standard
What began in 1865 as a casual, tailless alternative for the Prince of Wales has evolved into the pinnacle of semi-formal elegance. From the social enclaves of New York to the yachting resorts of England, discover the surprising history of the black tie.
The origins of the black tie dress code lie in a desire for comfort. In the 1860s, the British upper classes sought less formal alternatives to the rigid frock coat and evening tailcoat. The first recorded instance of this shift occurred in 1865, when the Prince of Wales—later King Edward VII—ordered a midnight blue silk smoking jacket from Savile Row tailors Henry Poole & Co. for use at his Sandringham estate.
As the 19th century progressed, the garment transitioned from a leisure item to a formal staple. While the British referred to it as a 'dinner jacket,' the style crossed the Atlantic with a different identity. In 1886, members of the New York social elite, including Griswold Lorillard, appeared at the first Autumn Ball in Tuxedo Park wearing a 'tailless dress coat.' This association with the New York enclave led to the term 'tuxedo' becoming common in American English.
The etiquette of the attire has fluctuated significantly over the decades. During the Edwardian era, the convention of wearing a black bow tie and waistcoat with the jacket was established. The 1960s and 1970s saw a departure from tradition, with bright, day-glow colors and patterned jackets becoming popular. However, the 1980s and 1990s saw a return to the classic black and midnight blue palette. Today, while the code remains less strict than 'white tie,' it maintains specific hallmarks: silk or satin lapels, matching trousers with side braids, and a preference for single-breasted, one-button construction.
Source: Black tie
