The luxury department store that launched Calvin Klein and employed Andy Warhol

Cultures · Published 3 October 2026 Swipe more like this →

In short: Before they were icons of fine art, Jasper Johns, Robert Rauschenberg, and Andy Warhol were window dressers for Bonwit Teller. This New York institution was more than a retailer; it was a high-fashion powerhouse that shaped the careers of legendary designers and defined Fifth Avenue elegance.

Founded by Paul Bonwit in 1895, Bonwit Teller began as a small millinery shop in Manhattan’s Ladies' Mile district. By the early 20th century, it had evolved into a premier luxury destination, known for high-end women's apparel and a commitment to quality that set it apart from competitors. The store's prestige was bolstered by its ability to attract talent; notably, the company's window displays were once crafted by future masters of the Pop Art movement, including Andy Warhol and Robert Ruscshenberg.

The store's physical presence was as dramatic as its fashion. Its iconic Fifth Avenue flagship at 56th Street, originally the Stewart & Company building, opened on October 16, 1929. Designed by Whitney Warren and Charles Wetmore, the structure featured a striking, unornamented limestone facade that stood in stark contrast to the more conventional nearby Bergdorf Goodman. The entrance was a spectacle of platinum, bronze, and tinted glass, described by contemporary magazines as a 'sparkling jewel.'

The brand's history is marked by significant shifts in ownership and architectural change. In 1934, Hortense Odlum became the first female president of a major American department store when her husband, financier Floyd Odlum, acquired the firm. While the store helped launch the career of Calvin Klein and promoted designers like Christian Dior, its later years were fraught with instability. Following a series of acquisitions and bankruptcies, including a 1987 sale to the Australian Hooker Corporation, the brand eventually faced closure. Even the building's famous 15-foot limestone relief panels met a controversial end when they were destroyed during a 1980s redevelopment by Donald Trump.

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