Why Ireland's most sparsely populated county is a geographic and historical anomaly
In short: County Leitrim is a land of unique contradictions. It is the smallest county in Connacht by population, yet it boasts the fastest growth rate in the province. It is also the only Irish county where you cannot travel between its northern and southern halves without crossing into another county's territory.
Leitrim’s identity is rooted in the ancient Kingdom of Breifne, which split into East and West Breifne during the 13th century. While the O'Rourke family of Dromahair once dominated the region, the county’s modern borders were demarcated around 1583 by English Deputy Sir John Perrot. By 1620, much of the land was confiscated to facilitate English settlement, an effort that ultimately failed. The landscape, once covered in dense forests that allowed travel from tree to tree for miles, was later transformed by iron works and coal mining, which flourished from the 15th century until the final mine closed in 1990.
The county’s geography is defined by Lough Allen, which bisects the region. This central feature creates a logistical curiosity: North and South Leitrim are effectively separated by a divide that forces travelers to exit the county to move between them. While the north remains hilly and mountainous, the south is more populous, housing approximately 65% of the county's residents as of 2016. Towns like Carrick-on-Shannon have become thriving river ports, serving as hubs for the Shannon–Erne Waterway, a 63-kilometer canal system that draws tourists to the region.
Leitrim has endured significant demographic shifts. In 1841, the population reached 155,000, but the Great Famine and subsequent emigration caused a drastic decline to 112,000 by 1851. Today, the county is experiencing a resurgence. Between 2002 and 2022, the population grew by 36%, reaching 35,087. Beyond its economic recovery, the county maintains a strong intellectual and cultural footprint, evidenced by its high rate of higher education participation—75% of 17- to 19-year-olds were admitted to higher courses in 2005—and its historical association with literary figures like W. B. Yeats, who found inspiration in the local landscape, including the famous Glencar Waterfall.
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Sources
- Summary by Intellect · source: County Leitrim
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