How a 1933 fashion trade offshoot became a pioneer of New Journalism
Born from a trade magazine for the garment industry, Esquire transformed from a high-priced fashion periodical into a literary powerhouse. It survived legal battles over 'lewd' illustrations and radical format changes to shape the very way we consume modern long-form storytelling.
Founded in October 1933 by Arnold Gingrich, David A. Smart, and Henry L. Jackson, Esquire began as an offshoot of the trade publication Apparel Arts. While its early years focused heavily on fashion—driven by Jackson’s editorial leadership—the magazine quickly pivoted. Despite an initial intended quarterly run of 100,000 copies at 50 cents each, high demand led it to become a more refined periodical featuring literary giants like Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald.
The magazine's history is marked by both cultural influence and legal controversy. In the 1940s, the popularity of 'pinup' illustrators like Petty and Vargas provided a circulation boost but triggered a lawsuit from US Postmaster General Frank Comerford Walker, who alleged the magazine used the postal service to promote 'lewd images.' The dispute eventually reached the Supreme Court, which ruled in 1946 in Hannegan v. Esquire, Inc. that the magazine's First Amendment rights protected its use of the Postal Service.
Under the direction of Harold Hayes from 1961 to 1973, Esquire became a cornerstone of the New Journalism movement, publishing influential writers such as Norman Mailer, Joan Didion, and Tom Wolfe. This era of literary prestige was balanced by a distinct visual identity, including the long-running 'Esky' character. Although the magazine faced significant decline in the 1990s due to shifting competition, later editors like David Granger and Jay Fielden attempted various revamps, moving between lifestyle-heavy content and more classical, up-market styles.
Source: Esquire (magazine)
