From ancient ox gall to synthetic revolutions: the long history of hair dye
In short: What began as a ritual involving honey and black ox gall has evolved into a multibillion-dollar global industry. Whether through ancient plant extracts or accidental chemical breakthroughs, the quest to alter hair color has shaped human identity for millennia.
The practice of hair coloring is an ancient art with roots stretching back to 2177 BCE, when Assyrian herbals contained the earliest known cosmetic recipes. Ancient Egyptians used the Ebers Papyrus, dating to c. 1550 BCE, to dye eyebrows and gray hair. By the 7th century BCE, Assyrian tablets recorded mixtures of cypress oil, licorice, honey, and the gall of a black ox to achieve black tones. These early methods relied heavily on the natural world, utilizing plants like henna, indigo, turmeric, and black walnut hulls.
The transition from botanical to synthetic dyes was sparked by a laboratory accident. In 1856, English chemist William Henry Perkin was attempting to synthesize quinine for malaria when he accidentally created mauveine, the first synthetic dye. This breakthrough laid the foundation for a massive industry. By the 1860s, scientists discovered the reactivity of para-phenylenediamine (PPD) with air, and in 1907, Eugène Schueller, the founder of L'Oréal, created the first synthetic hair dye.
Today, the market is highly sophisticated, with at-home coloring sales in the United States expected to reach $8.2 billion by 2033. Modern techniques range from 'balayage'—a hand-painted method that appears natural—to 'vivid colors' like fuchsia or green. While permanent dyes use ammonia to penetrate the hair's cortex for lasting change, newer innovations are exploring sustainability, such as a 2018 development using anthocyanin pigments extracted from blackcurrant fruit skin waste to create intense blue semi-permanent dyes.
Opens the Intellect+ feed with this card first. Swipe up for the next one.
Sources
- Summary by Intellect · source: Hair coloring
To cite this card, link to https://intellectplus.co.uk/app/culture-hair-coloring.
How we source, check and correct cards: Editorial standards.
General information, not professional advice. Spotted an error? Flag the card or see corrections and complaints.
Intellect Plus is a visual educational discovery platform for exploring fascinating facts and ideas. Brain Food, Not Brain Rot. What is Intellect Plus?
Related
More in Clothing and fashion · More in Cultures · Latest · A–Z · All topics
