From Sun Protection to Global Fashion: The Keffiyeh's Shifting Symbolism
This simple, square scarf, worn by men across the Middle East and North Africa, has evolved far beyond mere sun protection. Its patterns and colors have been deliberately adopted, repurposed, and stripped of meaning by diverse groups, making it a potent, yet contested, cultural signifier.
The keffiyeh, which has several regional names including hattah, ghutrah, and shemagh, is fundamentally a practical garment originating as protection against harsh arid environments like sun, dust, and sand. While early pictures of Arabs often depicted them in turbans, the written records of the ghutrah date back to the early 18th century, though the earliest visual evidence is from the 19th century (S1:p4). Etymologically, its origins are debated; some suggest a link to the European word "coif" or an Arabic loanword like الكفة ("cuff") (S1:p2).
Its symbolic weight dramatically shifted during periods of conflict and political assertion. For instance, during the 1936–1939 Arab revolt in Palestine, rebel commanders mandated the wearing of the keffiyeh, leading the British Mandatory High Commissioner, Harold MacMichael, to report in 1938 that eight out of ten tarbushes had been replaced by the keffiyeh and agal (S1:p9). Later, the black-and-white checkered style gained prominence in the 1950s when Glubb Pasha used it to distinguish his Palestinian soldiers from his Jordanian counterparts (S1:p10).
The scarf's adoption by non-local groups highlights its malleability. In the 1920s, American silent films frequently featured Western actors portraying Arabs wearing the keffiyeh as standard theatrical wardrobe (S1:p17). More recently, its use by non-Arab fashion circles has drawn controversy. In the 1970s, it gained popularity in the UK, and later in the US, where bohemian and punk subcultures adopted it as a scarf accessory (S1:p19). This trend culminated in instances of cultural appropriation, such as Topshop releasing a romper suit with the keffiyeh print, which led to accusations and the item's removal (S1:p19).
This journey demonstrates that while the keffiyeh remains a deeply rooted marker of regional identity—with variations like the Jordanian shemagh being a national symbol (S1:p8)—its adoption by the fashion industry often disregards its profound political and historical significance (S1:p19).
Source: Keffiyeh
