From ancient Egyptian status symbols to modern skincare, the history of male cosmetics
In short: While modern men often view makeup as a niche market, the use of cosmetics by men spans millennia. From eye pigments used to invoke gods to the dramatic artistry of Japanese Kabuki, the tools of grooming have long been used to signal wealth, status, and even divine protection.
The history of male grooming is marked by dramatic shifts in social acceptability. As early as 4000 BC, ancient Egyptian men used black eye pigments to create attractive designs and symbolize wealth; they even believed green eyeshadow could invoke the god Horus to ward off disease. In contrast, Roman society viewed certain cosmetic habits with suspicion. While light perfumes and moderate hair removal were acceptable, men seen with mirrors were labeled effeminate, and those using face-whitening makeup were viewed as immoral, as they were expected to appear tanned from outdoor labor. Extreme cases, such as Emperor Elagabalus, who removed all body hair and wore makeup, caused significant social grief.
Cultural traditions like Japanese Kabuki offer a different perspective on cosmetic utility. Since 162/9, when only male actors were permitted to perform, Kabuki has utilized elaborate makeup. Actors apply oil and wax to help cosmetics adhere, followed by a thick layer of white 'oshiroi' made from rice flour. The art form uses 'kumadori'—a style of approximately one hundred different mask-like patterns—to communicate emotion through color. For instance, dark red signifies anger or passion, while dark blue represents sadness.
In the modern era, the market has transitioned from a niche interest to a significant economic driver. While only 17% of men consider makeup essential to daily life, a staggering 97% use skincare products. The industry has seen a resurgence since the 1930s, driven by film and, more recently, by a growing awareness of beauty. Today, brands like Nivea and L’Oréal lead the market, often using simple, neutral packaging in colors like blue, grey, and black to reduce consumer resistance. This growth is reflected in the global market, which was valued at US$523.43 billion in 2017 and was projected to reach US$805.61 billion by 2023.
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- Summary by Intellect · source: Male cosmetics
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