From Croatian mercenaries to the boardroom: the surprising evolution of the necktie
What began as a small, knotted neckerchief worn by Croatian mercenaries during the Thirty Years' War eventually transformed into a global symbol of professional identity. This cloth accessory has survived wars, revolutions, and radical shifts in gendered fashion, evolving from elaborate lace cravats to the modern, efficient long tie.
The lineage of the modern necktie is rooted in the 17th-century conflict of the Thirty Years' War (1618–1648). French Parisians were captivated by the traditional knotted neckerchiefs worn by Croatian mercenaries. This fascination led to the term 'cravat'—a French derivative of the word for Croats, 'Hrvati'. By 1646, the fashion had reached the highest levels of society when a seven-year-old Louis XIV began wearing lace cravats, setting a trend for the French nobility.
As the centuries progressed, neckwear became a complex arena of social signaling. The 18th century saw the rise of 'stocks'—leather collars originally designed for soldiers to maintain military bearing and protect neck vessels from blades. By the 19th century, the 'cravat' became a mark of wealth, requiring immense skill to tie. The Industrial Revolution eventually demanded more practical alternatives, leading to the 1870 creation of the modern long tie by Oxford's Castell & Son.
The 20th century brought structural and stylistic revolutions. In 1922, Jesse Langsdorf introduced a method of cutting fabric on the bias, which prevented twisting and allowed the tie to fall evenly. While the mid-century saw the 'Bold Look' of wide, 5-inch ties, the late 20th century experienced a significant decline in workplace usage. In the US, annual tie sales peaked at 110 million in the early 1990s but nearly halved to 60 million by 2001. Today, while the tie's dominance in menswear has waned, it remains a versatile accessory, increasingly used in women's fashion as a form of sartorial 'armor'.
Source: Necktie
