Can a historical drama about Paris fashion succeed while ignoring the French language?
In short: The New Look, an Apple TV+ drama, explores the lives of Christian Dior and Coco Chanel during the Nazi occupation of Paris. While critics praise the show's lavish production and star-studded cast, the decision to film the series in English has sparked debate regarding its historical authenticity and immersive quality.
Created by Todd A. Kessler, The New Look premiered on February 14, 2024, with its first three episodes. The series chronicles the parallel paths of fashion icons Christian Dior and Coco Chanel as they navigate the complexities of life in occupied Paris during World War II. The cast features Ben Mendelsohn as Dior and Juliette Binoche as Chanel, supported by actors including John Malkovich, Maisie Williams, and Emily Mortimer, who portrays a character based on Vera Bate Lombardi.
The production process was marked by significant milestones, beginning with the project's greenlight in February 2022. Filming commenced in Paris by May 2022, though later production schedules were impacted by the 2023 SAG-AFTRA strike, which delayed the start of the second season. Beyond the visual narrative, the series features a curated soundtrack produced by Jack Antonoff. This collection, set for release on April 3, 2024, includes ten covers of mid-20th-century classics, such as Florence and the Machine’s rendition of The White Cliffs of Dover.
Critical reception has been mixed, reflecting a tension between aesthetic ambition and narrative cohesion. On Rotten Tomatoes, the series holds a 59% approval rating, with critics noting that while the production values are impressive, the storytelling can feel scattered. Metacritic reports a weighted average score of 62 out of 100. Notably, some reviewers, including Anita Singh of the Telegraph, have specifically challenged the creative choice to film the series in English, arguing that it detracts from the setting's atmosphere despite the show's sumptuous visual presentation.
The series was designed with the potential to evolve into an anthology format, allowing for future exploration of different historical periods or figures. As it stands, the show remains a focal point for discussions on how modern streaming platforms balance historical biographical drama with the demands of contemporary, global-facing entertainment, particularly when the language of the characters does not match the language of the production.
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Sources
- Summary by Intellect · source: The New Look (TV series)
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