The elusive history of Chicken Scarpariello: a recipe without a single true origin
Is Chicken Scarpariello a culinary classic or a modern invention? While it surged in popularity around 2016, tracing its roots reveals a dish that has drifted through decades of evolution, changing ingredients and cooking methods along the way.
The culinary identity of Chicken Scarpari and its various spellings remains a subject of historical investigation. While the dish saw a massive resurgence in food magazines and blogs between 2016 and 2017, its documented history stretches much further back. The first recorded mention of the name 'chicken scarpariello' dates to 1958 in New York. By the 1970s, newspaper advertisements for restaurants in New York and New Jersey showed the dish beginning to take shape, though it lacked a single, canonical version.
The recipe's evolution is marked by significant shifts in technique and composition. Early iterations featured different combinations of sausage, garlic, wine, and vinegared peppers, often paired with potatoes. Over time, the preparation drifted from a fried chicken dish to a braised version, and even saw changes in the cut of meat, moving from whole thighs to smaller nuggets. The name itself is linked to the 'shoemaker' meaning of scarpariello, a detail that has contributed to various myths surrounding the dish's origins.
Modern interpretations, such as those used by Glen And Friends Cooking, focus on building layers of heat, acidity, and richness. This contemporary approach typically involves browning Italian sausage and chicken thighs in fats like bacon or chicken fat, then braising them with onions, mushrooms, and bell peppers. The sauce is often finished with white wine, chicken stock, and the acidic punch of pickled peppers and pepperoncini liquid, sometimes thickened with a beurre manié to achieve a cohesive, comforting finish.
Source: Chicken Scarpariello: Is it Even a REAL Recipe?