The cheese that technically isn't a cheese

Food & Drink · Published 31 October 2026 Swipe more like this →

In short: In the world of dairy, ricotta is often treated as a byproduct rather than a primary craft. While industrial dairies might discard the liquid whey left over from curdling milk to feed livestock, small-scale Italian producers see it as an opportunity for culinary alchemy.

Technically, ricotta is classified as a whey cheese. Unlike standard cheeses made by curdling and draining milk, ricotta is produced from the liquid byproduct—whey—that remains after the primary cheese has been formed. Because of this distinction, large-scale industrial operations often view whey as waste material to be repurposed for animal feed or discarded entirely.

In Italy, however, local dairies treat this liquid as a valuable resource to be optimized. In towns like Locorotondo, artisans such as Giovanni Montanaro practice traditional methods to transform that leftover whey into a creamy, mild-tasting cheese. While it is traditionally associated with fresh sheep's milk, the process can also utilize milk from goats, cows, or Italian water buffaloes.

This practice reflects a broader Mediterranean philosophy of resourcefulness and regional identity. By extracting value from every part of the animal's output, small-scale producers maintain a sustainable cycle that preserves traditional flavors. This culinary heritage is deeply rooted in an Italian peninsula where food traditions have been refined over centuries, evolving from the staple crops and wild game consumed by ancient civilizations like the Etruscans.

Today, ricotta remains a versatile staple of the Italian pantry. Its yellowish-white color and soft texture make it a foundational element of regional cuisine, often appearing alongside other core ingredients like extra virgin olive oil, basil, and seasonal vegetables to create dishes that balance simplicity with sophisticated technique.

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