Once the Belly of Paris, Les Halles transformed from a food market to a transit hub.
In short: For centuries, Les Halles served as the central fresh food market of Paris, earning the nickname the Belly of Paris. After its demolition in the 1970s, the site underwent a series of controversial architectural transformations, eventually becoming the city's busiest transit hub and a modern, underground shopping destination.
Originating in the 11th century as a market in the Little Fields, Les Halles grew from a dry goods and money-changing site into the city's primary food hub. By 1183, Philip Augustus had established full control, constructing halls to protect textiles and defining the area's role at the heart of Paris. Over time, the market expanded, eventually housing the iconic glass and iron pavilions designed by Victor Baltard in the 1850s. This structure defined the area for over a century, immortalized in Émile Zola's 1873 novel, Le Ventre de Paris.
The market's decline began in the mid-20th century as it struggled to compete in a modern economy. In 1969, the fruit, flower, and vegetable markets were relocated, followed by the total demolition of the site in 1973. The wholesale operations moved to the suburb of Rungis. For several years, the area remained an open pit known as le trou des Halles, a source of significant public frustration located beside the historic church of Saint-Eustache.
The site's redevelopment was marked by intense controversy. The initial 1979 shopping complex was widely criticized as an architectural failure, with critics like Oliver Wainwright and Donato Severo labeling the demolition and subsequent designs as acts of urban vandalism. In response, Mayor Bertrand Delanoë initiated a new round of consultations in 2002. This led to the selection of designs by Patrick Berger and Jacques Anziutti, culminating in the inauguration of a massive, undulating glass canopy in 2016. Today, the site functions as the Westfield Forum des Halles, connected to the Châtelet–Les Halles transit hub, which serves as the busiest station in France.
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Sources
- Summary by Intellect · source: Les Halles
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