Why that black liquorice stick is a botanical powerhouse with a dark, hidden side

Why that black liquorice stick is a botanical powerhouse with a dark, hidden side
Image: Intellect (generated)

In short: Liquorice is more than a chewy treat; it is a complex confection crafted from the roots of the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant. While its signature flavour has been enjoyed for millennia, the science behind its sweetness—and its potential to trigger severe health complications—is as potent as the extract itself.

The history of liquorice as a confection spans thousands of years, with origins traced to the Middle East or China. Its evolution into the modern treat we recognize today began in 1760 when the Dunhill company added sugar to the extract. Earlier, in 1614, Sir George Savile had already popularized the format by stamping liquorice discs with the image of Pontefract Castle, creating the famous Pontefract cakes.

At the heart of authentic black liquorice is glycyrrhizin, a natural sweetener found in the root extract that is over 50 times sweeter than sucrose. Manufacturing involves heating ingredients like sugar, binders, and extract to 135 °C, then pouring the mixture into starch-powder molds. To achieve a glossy finish, the finished sweets are coated in beeswax. While regional variations exist—such as the salty, ammonium chloride-heavy varieties popular in Nordic countries—the term 'red liquorice' is a misnomer, as those products contain no actual liquorice extract at all.

Despite its long culinary tradition, liquorice carries genuine physiological risks. Glycyrrhizin can deplete body potassium, potentially leading to lethargy, swelling, and heart rhythm abnormalities. In extreme cases, chronic overconsumption can cause pseudohyperaldosteronism and fatal heart failure. A 2020 report documented a man in Massachusetts who suffered a fatal heart attack after consuming a bag and a half of black liquorice daily for several weeks, illustrating the danger of glycyrrhetinic acid accumulation. For most, however, the primary concern remains the subtle rise in blood pressure associated with regular intake of 50 grams or more over just two weeks.

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