Why the @ symbol is called a strudel in Hebrew and how to bake one

Food & Drink · Published 3 October 2026 · Updated 24 October 2026 Swipe more like this →

In short: The @ symbol is known as a shtrudel in Hebrew, a nod to the pastry's iconic spiral shape. While often associated with sweet apple fillings, this elastic, hand-stretched dough has roots in Ottoman baklava and a history of savory, cabbage-filled surprises that have confused travelers for over a century.

The word strudel originates from the Middle High German term for whirlpool or eddy, a fitting description for its rolled, spiral structure. Historians believe the pastry evolved from the Hungarian rétes, which itself was a variation of the Ottoman baklava. By the turn of the 18th century, the strudel as we recognize it today had emerged within the Austrian Empire, eventually becoming a staple across Central European cuisines. The oldest known recipes, including a turnip strudel and a Millirahmstrudel, date back to 1696.

Unlike flaky puff pastry, traditional Strudelteig is remarkably elastic. It is crafted from high-gluten flour, water, oil, and salt, then worked vigorously and stretched by hand until it reaches a near-translucent state. Purists insist the dough should be thin enough to read a newspaper through, while legend claims an Austrian Emperor’s perfectionist cook demanded it be thin enough to read a love letter through. This delicate sheet is then layered with fillings, rolled using a clean linen towel, and baked.

While apple strudel is the most famous variety, the culinary tradition is vast. Sweet versions include poppy seed, apricot, and quark cheese, while savory options range from spinach and potato to sauerkraut and meat. The dish is deeply embedded in cultural traditions; for instance, Hungarian rétes is served during New Year celebrations to invite good luck, and Ashkenazi Jewish communities have historically prepared oil-based versions for holidays like Purim and Simchat Torah. Even the @ symbol carries this legacy, with the official Hebrew term keruchit serving as both the formal name for the pastry and the digital character.

The versatility of the pastry has occasionally led to culinary misunderstandings. In the 19th century, American writer Alice Lee Moqué famously ordered a Kraut sprudel in Dalmatia, expecting a sweet dessert, only to discover a savory filling of hot, boiled cabbage. Today, the strudel remains a testament to the cross-pollination of cultures, bridging the gap between Ottoman techniques, Central European baking, and even modern digital nomenclature.

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