The messy, contested history of the American ice cream sundae

The messy, contested history of the American ice cream sundae
Image: Intellect (generated)

In short: The ice cream sundae is a quintessential American treat, yet its origin remains a subject of fierce debate. From religious blue laws to trademark disputes, the story of how this dessert earned its name and birthplace is as layered as the confection itself. Discover the truth behind the sundae wars.

The sundae is a classic American frozen dessert, typically featuring scooped ice cream adorned with syrups, whipped cream, and various toppings like nuts or fruit. While its composition is straightforward, its history is clouded by competing claims from cities across the United States, including New Orleans, Cleveland, and Plainfield, Illinois. The most intense rivalry, often called the 'Sundae War,' persists between Two Rivers, Wisconsin, and Ithaca, New York.

Ithaca’s claim is supported by historical documentation from The History Center in Tompkins County. On April 3, 1892, local minister John M. Scott and pharmacy co-owner Chester Platt reportedly created a 'Cherry Sunday' by drizzling cherry syrup over ice cream. By April 5, 1892, the first known advertisement for the dish appeared in the Ithaca Daily Journal. Platt even attempted to trademark the term 'Sunday' in 1894, though the spelling eventually shifted to 'sundae'—possibly to avoid trademark issues, appease religious groups who objected to using the Sabbath's name, or simply to appear more eye-catching.

Conversely, Two Rivers points to Edward C. Berners, who allegedly served chocolate-topped ice cream as early as 1881. However, critics note that Berners would have been only 16 or 17 at the time, making his ownership of a soda fountain improbable. Furthermore, his own obituary later dated the event to 1899. Other theories suggest the dessert emerged as a 'sodaless soda' in Evanston, Illinois, where blue laws prohibited the sale of traditional ice cream sodas on Sundays. Regardless of the true inventor, the treat exploded in popularity by the early 1900s, spawning countless regional variations like the Tin Roof sundae, which originated in Potter, Nebraska, in the 1930s.

Today, the sundae has evolved into a global category of desserts, including the layered parfait and the elaborate banana split. Whether served in a traditional tulip-shaped glass or a modern bowl, the sundae remains a testament to American culinary ingenuity, even if its exact origins remain forever lost to time and local lore.

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Sources

  • Summary by Intellect · source: Sundae

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