How a simple Venetian classic transforms humble peas into a creamy masterpiece

Venetian rice and peas — 'risi e bisi' · 7:01 · Video: Adam Ragusea · Watch at the source

In short: Risi e bisi is more than just a bowl of rice and peas. By utilizing the often-discarded pea pods to create a nutrient-rich broth, this traditional Venetian dish achieves a depth of flavor and a velvety texture that defies its simple ingredient list.

The soul of a true risi e bisi lies in the preparation of the liquid base. If you have access to fresh, shelled peas, the pods should not be wasted. Instead, simmer the pods with half of a finely diced onion in approximately 2 liters of salted water for 20 to 30 minutes. Once boiled, the mixture is pureed and strained, resulting in a concentrated, flavorful broth. If pods are unavailable, a simpler method involves boiling the onion and spinach until wilted to create a lighter base.

The cooking technique varies depending on the rice variety used. For longer-cooking varieties like Arborio, the process begins by softening the remaining diced onion in oil or butter, then adding the rice and enough white wine or broth to cover it. However, for the traditional Vialone Nano rice, which cooks more rapidly, the fresh peas should be added to the liquid first. This ensures the peas and rice reach the perfect consistency simultaneously.

the rice should be simmered for 15 to 20 minutes, frequently topped with broth to maintain a texture that sits between a thick risotto and a soup. The final stage, known as mantecatura, involves stirring in generous amounts of butter and cheese—or vegan sour cream—once the rice is nearly tender but still slightly crunchy.

To elevate the dish, a bright herb oil is prepared by grinding fresh parsley and mint with salt and olive oil into a thick sauce. This is drizzled over the finished risotto just before serving, adding a fresh, aromatic contrast to the rich, creamy grains.

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