From Roman legions to Christmas markets, why we have been heating wine for millennia.

Nature · Published 3 October 2026 Swipe more like this →

In short: Mulled wine is a global winter tradition, but its roots stretch back to the 2nd century BC. While modern recipes vary from Nordic glögg to German Glühwein, the core concept remains unchanged: wine, heat, and a complex blend of spices designed to warm the body during the coldest months.

The practice of heating and spicing wine is an ancient culinary technique. The earliest written record appears in the 2nd century BC play Curculio by the Roman playwright Plautus. As the Roman legions expanded their reach across Europe, they carried their viticulture and specific recipes with them, establishing a foundation for spiced wine traditions that would eventually permeate the continent. By the medieval period, these practices were well-documented; the 1390 English cookery book The Forme of Cury provides a detailed list of ingredients, including cinnamon, ginger, galangal, cloves, and grains of paradise, mixed with red wine and sugar.

Today, the drink manifests in diverse regional forms. In Germany, Glühwein is a staple of Christmas markets, with the oldest known tankard attributed to Count John IV of Katzenelnbogen, dating to approximately 1420. Variations are vast: the Polish grzaniec often uses honey instead of sugar, while the German Feuerzangenbowle involves setting a rum-soaked sugarloaf on fire to drip into the wine. In Nordic countries, glögg is typically served with raisins, blanched almonds, and ginger biscuits, often heated to between 60 and 70 degrees Celsius to infuse the spices.

Beyond Europe, the tradition has adapted to local climates and ingredients. In Brazil, vinho quente is a feature of the winter Festa Junina in June, while in Chile, the drink known as navega'o is consumed throughout the country, particularly during winter celebrations like Saint John's Eve. Even in the realm of popular culture, the drink has left its mark, appearing in the 1946 film It's a Wonderful Life and serving as the namesake for the 1944 German film Feuerzangenbowle. Whether used as a folk remedy for colds in North Macedonia or a festive staple in the Alps, mulled wine remains a persistent, evolving global comfort.

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