How a Japanese coal mining hub transformed into a thriving tropical resort destination

Countries & Cities · Published 29 September 2026 Swipe more like this →

In short: Iwaki, a sprawling city in Fukushima Prefecture, was once defined by the Jōban coalfield. When the mines closed after World War II, the city turned a geological nuisance—troublesome hot springs—into a massive economic engine. Today, Spa Resort Hawaiians draws 1.5 million visitors annually, anchoring a diverse, industrial, and coastal economy.

Incorporated in 1966 through the merger of 14 distinct municipalities, Iwaki is a sprawling, decentralized city covering 1,232.02 square kilometres. Its geography is defined by a sharp contrast between the rugged Abukuma highlands to the west, which occupy about 70 percent of its land, and a flatter eastern coastline facing the Pacific Ocean. This unique positioning allows the warm Kuroshio and cold Oyashio currents to meet offshore, creating an exceptionally rich fishing ground that has sustained the region for generations.

The city's history is deeply tied to its natural resources. During the Edo period, the area was divided into domains like Iwakitaira, where the shogunate maintained control. By the late 19th century, the development of the Jōban coalfield—the largest in Honshū—transformed the local economy. The Jōban Line was constructed specifically to haul coal, fueling rapid growth. However, the transition away from coal after World War II forced a radical reinvention. By leveraging the geothermal waters that once plagued miners, the city birthed Spa Resort Hawaiians, a cultural and tourist landmark famously depicted in the 2006 film Hula Girls.

Today, Iwaki stands as the industrial powerhouse of the Tōhoku region, leading in the production of machinery, chemicals, and wood-based goods. Despite the devastating 2011 earthquake and tsunami, which resulted in 303 deaths and 82 missing persons by May of that year, the city remains a vital hub. With a population of over 322,000, it functions as a core city with significant autonomy, balancing its heavy industrial output with a robust tourism sector that attracts 7.64 million visitors annually. Its identity remains a complex blend of ancient history, industrial resilience, and a surprising, permanent tropical flair.

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