The British retreat to the Himalayas: how a sanatorium became a summer capital

The British retreat to the Himalayas: how a sanatorium became a summer capital
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In short: In the mid-19th century, British troops fled the scorching heat of the Punjab plains for the cool heights of the Pir Panjal Range. What began as a military sanatorium in 1851 evolved into a prestigious colonial headquarters, complete with restricted luxury and mountain vistas.

Major James Abbott first spotted the site's potential as a hill station in 1847, later leading to its official use as a recovery retreat for British soldiers serving near the Afghan border. Construction began in 1851 under the direction of Sir Henry Lawrence, the president of the Punjab Administrative Board. By 1853, a permanent town was erected at Sunnybank, featuring barracks and a church that was consecrated in May 1857. The area's early identity was shaped by the landscape, with the name Murree or Marhi meaning 'high place.' Early visitors like Abbott noted the presence of alchemists and Jogies near the summit of Mount Maachpoer.

The town's strategic importance grew during the colonial era. From 1873 to 1875, Murree served as the summer headquarters for the Government of the Punjab Province, though this status was transferred to Shimla in 1876. During this period, the town's social fabric was strictly stratified; access to commercial hubs like Mall Road—now known as Jinnah Road—was restricted to Europeans, excluding non-European residents from certain establishments. The town's development was bolstered by a railway link to Lahore via Rawalpindi, which facilitated an influx of English families. This period saw the establishment of various European-style merchants, tailors, and a post office opposite the local church.

Today, Murree remains a vital Pakistani tourist destination, situated at an average altitude of 2,291 metres. While its architecture retains neo-gothic and Tudorbethan influences, the town has undergone significant administrative shifts. Between 2022 and 2023, its status fluctuated between a tehsil and a district following various government appointments and legal challenges in the Lahore High Court. Despite these shifts, it remains a key transit point for travelers heading to Azad Kashmir and Abbottabad.

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