Why fashion designers use pastels to simulate the weight of fabric
In short: In fashion design, color is more than an aesthetic choice; it is a tool for spatial awareness. By using specific mediums like pastels, designers can map out complex color blocking and shadows to visualize how a garment will behave in three dimensions before a single stitch is sewn.
The process of coloring a fashion sketch begins only after the design has been fully inked. Once the outlines are set, designers select a medium—such as color pencils, washes, watercolor, or pastels—to bring the garment to life. Each medium offers different properties, but pastels are particularly favored for their shading capabilities and the way they spread across the page.
When working with pastels, the principle of 'less is more' applies because the pigment distributes easily. Designers often start from the outside of the garment to establish color blocking. This initial coloring serves as a preliminary visualization, allowing the artist to experiment with different hues to see which final design works best. Because pastels are essentially compressed powder in a stick form, they provide a sense of 'instant gratification' that helps in rapid prototyping of ideas.
Technical precision is required to maintain the integrity of the design. To create depth, designers apply heavier pressure on areas like the shoulders to indicate shadow. A key technique involves drawing lines on the outside of a garment's panels; this automatically creates shading as the color is worked into the design lines. However, this requires a 'smudging device' or stick. To prevent colors from bleeding into one another and turning the entire dress a single muddy hue, the artist must switch to a different side of the smudge stick whenever moving to a different color family.
The medium also allows for a degree of forgiveness. If a pastel goes outside the inked line, it can be removed with an eraser later. This workflow allows the designer to focus on the interplay of tones—such as shifting from a 'volcanic' red to a burgundy or wine color—while maintaining the structural silhouette of the piece.
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Sources
- Summary by Intellect · source: How to Color a Sketch | Fashion Sketching
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