From ancient protective kohl to the messy, petroleum-based roots of modern mascara
In short: Before it was a tube in your purse, mascara was a ritualistic tool used to ward off evil spirits. From the soot-stained lashes of ancient Egypt to the dangerous, unregulated dyes of the 1930s, the evolution of this cosmetic is a story of chemistry, celebrity, and survival.
The origins of eye darkening date back to approximately 4000 BC in ancient Egypt. Using a substance known as kohl—composed of charcoal, soot, malachite, galena, honey, and even crocodile stool—both men and women applied the mixture to darken their eyelashes and eyebrows. Beyond aesthetics, this served a functional purpose: the kohl was believed to protect the soul from evil spirits and provide a layer of defense against eye diseases like trachomas.
The modern liquid form we recognize today emerged in the 19th century. Chemist Eugène Rimmel revolutionized the industry by utilizing newly invented petroleum jelly, creating a product so influential that his name became synonymous with 'mascara' in several languages, including Portuguese and Spanish. By the early 20th century, the market saw rapid innovation and competition. In 1915, Thomas Lyle Williams developed a similar petroleum-and-coal mixture for his sister Mabel, a product that eventually became Maybelline. This era also saw the rise of the 'waterproof' cream mascara, patented in 1935 by Viennese opera singer Helene Winterstein-Kambersky.
However, the path to safety was fraught with risk. In 1933, a woman known as Mrs. Brown suffered blindness after using 'Lash Lure,' a product containing the toxic chemical para-phenylenediamine. The incident, along with others documented in Ruth deForest Lamb's 'American Chamber of Horrors,' became a catalyst for change. It led directly to the 1938 mandate granting the FDA the authority to regulate cosmetics, transforming mascara from a dangerous, unregulated substance into a standardized consumer staple.
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Sources
- Summary by Intellect · source: Mascara
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