The dark history and vibrant rebirth of Salvador’s most famous colonial neighborhood

Countries & Cities · Published 29 September 2026 Swipe more like this →

In short: Known as Pelourinho, the historic center of Salvador, Brazil, is a UNESCO World Heritage site defined by its stunning 17th-century architecture. Yet, its name recalls a brutal past as a site of public punishment for enslaved people, and its modern preservation efforts have sparked complex debates over gentrification and displacement.

The Historic Center of Salvador, or Pelourinho, served as the city's heart during the Portuguese colonial era. Its name derives from the pillory—a whipping post once located in the central plaza—where enslaved Africans were subjected to public violence. Today, the area is celebrated for its dense collection of colonial monuments, including the Baroque Church and Convent of São Francisco and the Mannerist Cathedral of Salvador. These structures, built between the 17th and 19th centuries, stand as a testament to the complex history of the region.

The site's preservation journey has been fraught with tension. In 1933, the demolition of the Church of the Holy See and surrounding blocks triggered a national outcry, eventually leading to the creation of the National Institute of Historic and Artistic Heritage. By 1984, the institute declared the district a national heritage site, followed by its UNESCO designation in 1985. Since the 1990s, extensive restoration projects have revitalized over 800 buildings, many of which now house museums and cultural centers dedicated to Afro-Brazilian history.

Despite these successes, the revitalization process remains controversial. While the 1990s initiatives improved safety and tourism, they also led to the forced relocation of many long-term Afro-Brazilian residents. This gentrification has turned the neighborhood into a focal point for local political debate, highlighting the struggle to balance historical conservation with the rights of the community that gives the area its cultural life. The district continues to serve as a vital hub for Afro-Brazilian music, religion, and cuisine, reflecting the enduring influence of these cultures in the New World.

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